Every Greek island has its own personality. Some are remembered for dramatic landscapes, secluded coves or dazzling turquoise water. Spetses leaves a different impression altogether. Its charm is quieter, more refined — and perhaps most captivating after sunset.
Once known to the Venetians as Isola di Spezie, the Island of Aromas, Spetses has a name that feels wonderfully fitting. The scent of pine trees, flowers and the sea is part of its identity, but for us, the island seemed to carry something less tangible: a sense of understated luxury, maritime heritage and effortless Greek elegance. You notice it in the grand old captains’ mansions, beautifully arranged waterfront restaurants, independent art galleries, carefully curated boutiques and horse-drawn carriages making their way along the promenade. And then evening arrives. The heat softens, restaurant terraces begin to glow, people gather by the water and the whole town seems to come into its own. We spent around a day and a half on Spetses during our Greek sailing journey aboard our Beneteau Oceanis 46.1 Whisper. It wasn’t a long stay, but it was enough to make us want to return — especially for another evening by the sea.
Spetses: An Island Shaped by the Sea
Spetses lies in the Saronic Gulf, just off the Peloponnese coast. Although it is known today for its elegant holiday atmosphere, its character was shaped long before tourism arrived. During the 18th and 19th centuries, the island prospered through shipping and maritime trade. Wealthy shipowners and captains built impressive stone mansions, many of which still stand along the waterfront and in the older neighbourhoods. Spetses also played an important role in the Greek War of Independence, which began in 1821. One of its most celebrated historical figures is Laskarina Bouboulina, a remarkable shipowner who used her wealth and vessels to support the struggle for Greek independence.
That maritime past is still visible. Traditional wooden boats share the harbour with modern yachts, small boatyards remain part of the Old Harbour, and historic houses sit just a short walk from contemporary restaurants and stylish hotels. Private car traffic is restricted on the island, making the central streets particularly pleasant to explore on foot. Horse-drawn carriages remain one of the most distinctive sights on Spetses. It’s this combination of history and present-day island life that gives Spetses such an individual character.
Sailing to Spetses: Our Arrival from Milos
We reached Spetses after sailing from Milos. Along the way, we were lucky enough to encounter dolphins – one of those unexpected moments that make time at sea so memorable. We approached the island at around 3 pm, hoping to secure a berth for the night. Our first stop was Spetses Old Harbour, also known as Baltiza. It’s a beautiful setting, but we couldn’t find an available berth. We then tried Dapia, the island’s main port, with the same result: no suitable space for our yacht. Rather than spend more time searching, we decided to anchor off Kounoupitsa, west of Dapia and almost directly opposite Spetses Hotel. For us, it turned out to be a comfortable and peaceful overnight stop. We had time to relax, swim directly from the yacht and get ready for an evening ashore. There was no access to shore power or freshwater at the anchorage. Fortunately, Whisper has an onboard generator, so electricity wasn’t a concern, while we simply kept an eye on our remaining freshwater supply.
Later, we took our dinghy ashore and left it near the jetty by Spetses Hotel. This was an informal landing arrangement that happened to work for us, not an official dinghy dock. Other visitors should check local access and landing arrangements rather than assume that the hotel jetty is available. Our experience was a useful reminder to keep a backup plan when sailing around popular Greek islands in summer. Harbour space can be limited, and the most attractive option on paper may not be available when you arrive.
Dapia: The Elegant Heart of Spetses
Dapia is the island’s main harbour and the centre of town life. Passenger boats and water taxis arrive here, while cafés, restaurants and shops spread out along the waterfront and into the surrounding streets. Yet Dapia feels more like the centre of a classic Mediterranean resort than a purely functional port. Its architecture, open waterfront and relaxed atmosphere make it an inviting place to begin exploring. One building in particular stands out: the Poseidonion Grand Hotel. Opened in the early 20th century, this historic hotel has long been associated with the island’s elegant social life. Its grand façade, balconies and architectural details reflect an era when Spetses became a fashionable retreat for affluent Greek families. We found it especially beautiful after dark, when the façade was illuminated and the square outside filled with people enjoying the evening. Horse-drawn carriages are another familiar sight around Dapia. You can take a carriage ride along parts of the waterfront, although we preferred to explore on foot, stopping whenever something caught our eye.
Why Spetses Is at Its Best in the Evening
If we had to choose just one time of day to experience Spetses, it would be the evening. After dinner, we walked along the waterfront from Dapia to the Old Harbour, and it became one of our favourite walks of the entire trip. As daylight faded, the town changed. Restaurants lit up their terraces, people gathered around tables overlooking the sea, and the old buildings took on a completely different appearance in the warm evening light. Carriages passed along the streets. Shop windows glowed. Small galleries and boutiques invited us to stop and look inside. There was plenty happening, but nothing felt rushed. What surprised us most was the quality and variety of the shops. Spetses has a lovely selection of ceramics, home accessories, jewellery, clothing and small independent boutiques. These weren’t simply the usual souvenir shops found in many holiday destinations. We came across beautiful, distinctive pieces that felt genuinely worth taking home. Of all the islands we visited on this journey, Spetses was one of the places where we would most happily shop for something special – particularly ceramics, jewellery or decorative objects for the home. If you enjoy browsing galleries and thoughtfully designed shops, don’t limit yourself to the waterfront. Wander a street or two inland, where there are more interesting places to discover. We eventually returned to Whisper at around 11:20 pm, poured ourselves a glass of sparkling wine and settled in for the night.
It had been a simple evening: a good dinner, a long walk and time to enjoy the island. Yet it was exactly the kind of experience that makes a sailing holiday feel special.
Exploring Spetses Old Harbour: Yachts, Boatyards and Maritime History
The Old Harbour of Spetses, often called Baltiza, is one of the island’s most atmospheric areas. Today, you’ll find fishing boats, beautiful yachts, traditional boatyards and waterfront restaurants. But this was once an important centre of shipbuilding and maritime trade. In the 18th and 19th centuries, wooden vessels were built and repaired here before setting out on trading voyages across the Mediterranean.Some of that boatbuilding tradition survives, and the working elements of the harbour add character to what might otherwise feel like a purely picturesque destination. Above the harbour stands the Church of Agios Nikolaos, closely connected with the island’s history and the Greek struggle for independence. The area around the old lighthouse is also worth exploring. Among the pine trees, visitors can discover works by the Greek sculptor Natalia Mela. What makes the Old Harbour appealing is the way its past remains part of everyday life. You can admire a beautifully restored yacht, notice a traditional wooden boat being worked on nearby, then sit down for a drink overlooking the water. For travellers arriving by yacht, it feels like a natural place to spend an evening – even if, as in our case, finding a berth proves impossible.
Things to Do in Spetses: Museums, Mansions and Historic Streets
There is more to Spetses than its harbours and waterfront restaurants. If you’re spending a full day on the island, its museums and historic neighbourhoods are well worth including in your plans.
Bouboulina Museum
Located near Dapia, the Bouboulina Museum occupies the historic home associated with Laskarina Bouboulina, one of the best-known figures of the Greek War of Independence. Bouboulina was a wealthy shipowner who supported the revolutionary cause with her own ships and resources. The museum offers an insight into her life, the island’s maritime history and the period in which she lived, with historical objects, documents and exhibits connected to her story. For anyone interested in Greek history, it’s one of the island’s most significant attractions.
Spetses Museum
The Spetses Museum is housed in the historic mansion of Hatzigiannis Mexis. Its collections explore different periods of island life, including maritime trade, traditional culture and the Greek War of Independence. The building itself is part of the attraction, offering another glimpse into the architectural heritage of Spetses.
The Old Captains’ Mansions
You don’t need to enter a museum to appreciate the island’s past. A walk through the older streets reveals substantial stone houses, elegant balconies, wooden shutters, high courtyard walls and details that recall the wealth of Spetses’ seafaring families. We didn’t manage to visit the museums ourselves. The following morning was hot, and we eventually decided to continue our voyage. But with more time, we would certainly make room for at least one museum and a longer walk through the historic neighbourhoods.
Where to Eat in Spetses: Our Dinner at Patralis
One of the things we loved most about Spetses was the choice of waterfront restaurants. There are so many inviting places to spend an evening, from terraces almost touching the sea to charming garden dining areas. We chose Patralis, a traditional seafood restaurant in the Kounoupitsa area. The restaurant has different dining spaces, including a garden terrace and a terrace overlooking the sea. We sat on the white seafront terrace, directly above the water. From our table, we could even see our yacht at anchor. We ordered octopus with fava, prawns and small fried calamari. The octopus with Greek fava was particularly memorable. Despite its name, Greek fava is usually a smooth purée made from yellow split peas rather than broad beans. Its gentle, earthy flavour was a lovely match for the octopus. The prawns and crispy little calamari were delicious too. But the setting made the meal just as memorable as the food. The sea was right below us, the evening light was softening, and there was no reason to hurry.
Our tip: If you’re planning dinner at Patralis, ask specifically for a table on the sea-facing terrace when booking. The restaurant has different seating areas, and the waterfront setting was a big part of our experience. Wherever you choose to eat, we’d strongly recommend saving at least one evening on Spetses for dinner beside the sea.
What to Eat in Spetses: Amygdalota and Local Sweet Treats
If there’s one traditional sweet worth seeking out on Spetses, it’s amygdalota. These almond-based confections are closely associated with the island and make a lovely edible souvenir. They are typically made with almonds and sugar, sometimes with fragrant additions such as rosewater. Recipes and shapes vary between bakeries. You’ll see amygdalota in local pastry shops and gift boxes, often presented as one of the island’s signature treats. We bought some from a bakery before leaving Spetses. We also enjoyed frozen yoghurt, which was particularly welcome on a hot morning. Greek bakeries are always worth visiting during a sailing holiday. They make an easy stop for coffee, something sweet or a savoury pastry such as spanakopita (spinach pie) or tiropita (cheese pie). It’s a small part of travelling in Greece, but one we never tire of.
Best Beaches and Bays in Spetses for a Sailing Holiday
Spetses isn’t only about its town, architecture and evening atmosphere. The island also has a number of attractive beaches and bays that can fit naturally into a sailing itinerary. During our visit, we swam directly from Whisper at our anchorage near town. We didn’t visit the beaches below ourselves, so these are places we’d consider for a longer return trip rather than stops we’re reviewing from personal experience.
Zogeria Bay: Pine Trees and Clear Water
Zogeria Bay is one of the best-known coastal spots on Spetses. Its appeal lies in the combination of pine-covered surroundings, clear water and a more natural atmosphere away from the town centre. It looks like an appealing place to spend part of the day swimming, relaxing and enjoying lunch aboard. As with any potential anchorage, check the latest charts, depths, seabed, local restrictions and forecast before deciding whether to stop. A beautiful bay isn’t necessarily suitable in every wind direction.
Agia Paraskevi: A Beach Framed by Pines
Agia Paraskevi is known for its pine trees, pebbled shoreline and the small chapel from which it takes its name. It’s an attractive option for travellers who want to spend some time ashore rather than remain on the yacht throughout the day.
Agioi Anargyroi and Bekiri Cave
Agioi Anargyroi is one of the island’s larger beaches, with organised beach facilities and opportunities for waterside activities. Nearby is Bekiri Cave, one of Spetses’ more unusual natural attractions. The cave contains water and a small sandy area inside. It can be approached from land or through a low opening on the sea side. Conditions and access require care, particularly if considering entering from the water. Swimming through a low opening is not suitable for everyone, and it’s worth checking safe access arrangements locally.
Agia Marina: Beach Time Close to Town
Agia Marina is relatively close to Spetses town and offers a more organised beach experience, with places to eat and drink nearby. It’s a practical option if you want a beach afternoon without travelling too far from the main settlement.
A Different Side of Spetses: Our Morning Ashore
The next morning, we took the dinghy ashore again. After such a lovely evening, we wanted another look around town, a coffee and a little more time to explore. But Spetses felt quite different in daylight. It was hot, many of the boutiques, galleries and souvenir shops were still closed, and the waterfront had lost some of the magic we’d experienced the night before. The cafés were open, and we stopped at one for coffee and ice cream. We also visited the fish market, but there wasn’t a particularly large selection of fish when we were there, so it didn’t become a highlight of our morning. With the heat building, we decided against visiting the museums. Before heading back, we picked up some amygdalota from a local bakery and enjoyed more frozen yoghurt. Then we returned to the yacht and made an earlier-than-planned departure for Hydra. That morning taught us something useful about how we’d plan our next visit. Rather than spending the hottest part of the day walking along the waterfront, we’d prefer to swim from the yacht, enjoy a quiet bay or explore a museum. We’d save the harbour promenade, restaurants, galleries and shops for later in the day, when Spetses seems to show its most appealing side.
How to Spend One or Two Days in Spetses by Yacht
If you’re including Spetses in a sailing itinerary through the Saronic Gulf, this is how we’d suggest making the most of your time.
Day One: A Relaxed Day at Sea and an Evening Ashore
If the weather and your route allow, spend the earlier part of the day in a suitable bay around Spetses. Swim, relax on deck and enjoy lunch aboard rather than rushing into town during the midday heat. Later, make your way towards your planned overnight stop, allowing time to assess harbour availability and anchoring conditions. Once settled, head ashore for the evening. Start in Dapia, admire the Poseidonion Grand Hotel, browse the boutiques and galleries, and choose a waterfront restaurant for dinner. Afterwards, walk towards the Old Harbour. For us, this combination – time on the water followed by a beautiful evening in town – captures the best of Spetses.
Day Two: Maritime History and a Slow Morning
If you’re staying longer, begin with the Bouboulina Museum or a walk through the old captains’ neighbourhoods. Continue towards the Old Harbour to see the traditional boatyards and explore more of the island’s maritime heritage. Stop for coffee, pick up a box of amygdalota and return to the yacht whenever you’re ready. With extra time, you could also include a beach visit or another swim stop, depending on conditions.День первый: море и красивый вечер
Practical Sailing Tips for Visiting Spetses
Harbours and berthing. Spetses has the Old Harbour, the main port at Dapia and possible anchorages along the coast. Berthing options depend on vessel size, available space, weather and local regulations. We found no suitable berth in either harbour and anchored off Kounoupitsa instead. Our calm night there shouldn’t be taken as a guarantee that the anchorage will be comfortable or appropriate in different conditions.
Shore power and freshwater. We had neither at our anchorage. If you need to replenish water or connect to shore power, check current harbour facilities and availability in advance rather than assuming a berth or service will be available.
Getting ashore by dinghy. We landed near Spetses Hotel, but this was not an official dinghy facility. There are various places along the waterfront where landing may be possible, although access, permission, safety and the ability to leave a dinghy should always be checked locally.
Getting around. Central Spetses is easy to explore on foot. Bicycles, water taxis and horse-drawn carriages are among the other ways to get around, while private car traffic is restricted.
Timing your visit. Summer afternoons can be very hot. Check museum opening hours, and remember that some shops and galleries may open later in the day.
Waterfront dining. For a sea-facing table, particularly in peak season, book ahead and confirm the exact terrace or seating area.
Our Favourite Memory of Spetses
Spetses became one of the most pleasant surprises of our sailing trip. Not because of a single landmark or an extraordinary beach, but because of the way everything comes together. The old mansions, horse-drawn carriages, beautiful waterfront restaurants, ceramics, galleries, traditional boats and evening lights all contribute to a distinctive atmosphere. There’s an elegance to the island that feels rooted in its history rather than created purely for visitors. Our morning ashore was quieter and less memorable than the previous evening. But that contrast helped us realise exactly how we’d like to experience Spetses next time. A daytime swim and a relaxed lunch aboard. An evening spent wandering between Dapia and the Old Harbour. A table overlooking the sea, a little time browsing beautiful shops, and a dinghy ride back to the yacht after dark.
That’s the Spetses we’d love to return to!
Explore Spetses by Yacht with Sailing To Go
Spetses makes a wonderful addition to a sailing holiday in the Saronic Gulf, where historic harbours, sheltered bays, traditional villages and distinctive island cultures can all become part of one journey. Travelling by yacht gives you the freedom to shape each day around the sea: swim when conditions are right, enjoy lunch aboard and discover island towns when the evening atmosphere is at its best. It’s how we explore Greece aboard our own Beneteau Oceanis 46.1 Whisper, gathering first-hand experiences and practical insights to share through Sailing To Go.
If you’d like to include Spetses in your Greek sailing holiday, explore our Saronic Gulf routes:
You can also browse our fleet or get in touch to discuss the type of sailing holiday and route that would suit you best.
With care and a love for the sea — your Sailing To Go team.
